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Heavy, wet and energetic

Whenever the Moon's tidal field and the Earth's rotation  wind and land conspire to pick up the ocean and violently fold it over on itself, most people stay far away. A select few take the opportunity to slide merrily along the folded ocean on little boards, at the mercy of gravity and fluid dynamics.

Check out the video below and recall that there a little less than a metric ton per cubic meter of water. That's a lot of cubic meters of water over each surfer's head! I have no idea how a human survive having all that water savagely dumped on them. h/t Jon Swift.

Comments

Unknown said…
Aren't ocean waves like this cause more by the wind and underlying geography of the ocean floor than the tidal field of the moon?

(Cushing)
John Johnson said…
D'oh! That's what I get for trying to be poetic rather than scientific.

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